Build-A-Clock CLOCK CUSTOMIZATION INSTRUCTIONS. One Plan - One Bit, Endless Possibilities. Cut #1. Cut #4 Cut #2. Cut #5 Cut #3

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1 #067 CLOCK CUSTOMIZATION INSTRUCTIONS The Multi-Form Bit makes every clock a one-of-a-kind heirloom Build-A-Clock One Plan - One Bit, Endless Possibilities A l t e r nate Tops Multi-Form Router Bit # Helpful Hint: Use the color coded presentation within this instruction packet to create a variety of tops and bases. There's no reason to stop with our suggestions. Feel free to experiment and match the decor in your home. A l t e r nate Feet

2 Route Depth Alternate Top One Carcass width + (2 x route depth) + (2 x overhang): 9 7 8" + (2 x 5 8" = 1 1 4") + (2 x 1 4" = 1 2") = " finish Carcass depth + door thickness + hinge gap + route depth + overhang: 4 3 4" + 5 8" " + 5 8" + 1 4" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better Length of "" + (2 x "" route depth): " + (2 x 1 2" = 1") = " finish Width of "" + "" route depth: " + 1 2" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We ran this profile with multiple passes using a coping sled in the miter track and using the fence as our stop for the final pass. Make sure your fence is parallel to your miter track if using fence as stop. Another method could be using shims on the outfeed side of the fence to account for the depth of route. This will help to avoid snipes. COPING SLED Length of "" - (depth of bead on "" x 2): " - ( 1 4" x 2 = 1 2") = " Width of "" - depth of bead on "": " - 1 4" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better

3 Route Depth Alternate Top Two Carcass width + (2 x route depth) + (2 x overhang): 9 7 8" + (2 x 5 8" = 1 1 4") + (2 x 1 4" = 1 2") = " finish Carcass depth + door thickness + hinge gap + rout depth + overhang: 4 3 4" + 5 8" " + 5 8" + 1 4" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better Length of "" + (2 x "" route depth): " + (2 x 1 2" = 1") = " finish Width of "" + "" route depth: " + 1 2" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We ran this profile with multiple passes using a coping sled in the miter track and using the fence as our stop for the final pass. Make sure your fence is parallel to your miter track if using fence as stop. Another method could be using shims on the outfeed side of the fence to account for the depth of route. This will help to avoid snipes. COPING SLED Length of "" - (depth of bead on "" x 2) + ("" route depth x 2) = length: " - ( 1 4" x 2 = 1 2") + ( 11 16" x 2 = 1 3 8") = " Width of "" - depth of bead on "" + "" route depth: " - 1 4" " = 7 1 4" See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better back until the final pass is achieved.

4 Route Depth Alternate Top Three Carcass width + (2 x route depth): 9 7 8" + ( 1 2" x 2 = 1") = " Carcass depth + door thickness + hinge gap + route depth: 4 3 4" + 5 8" " + 1 2" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We ran this profile with multiple passes using a coping sled in the miter track and using the fence as our stop for the final pass. Make sure your fence is parallel to your miter track if using fence as stop. Another method could be using shims on the outfeed side of the fence to account for the depth of route. This will help to avoid snipes COPING SLED Length of "" - (2 x "" route depth) - (2 x under hang): " - (2 x 1 2" = 1") - (2 x 1 4" = 1 2") = 9 3 8" Width of "" - "" route depth - under hang: " - 1 2" - 1 4" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better results by running multiplepasses by moving the fence back until the final pass is achieved. Length of "" - ("" route depth x 2) - (under hang x 2): 9 3 8" - ( 7 16" x 2 = 7 8") - ( 1 4" x 2 = 1 2") = 8" Width of "" - "" route depth - under hang: " " - 1 4" = 4 1 2" See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better

5 Route Depth Alternate Top Four Carcass width + (2 x route depth): 9 7 8" + ( 1 2" x 2 = 1") = " Carcass depth + door thickness + hinge gap + route depth: 4 3 4" + 5 8" " + 5 8" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better back until the final pass is achieved. Oval Crown Length of "" - (2 x "" route depth) - (2 x under hang): " - (2 x 1 2" = 1") - (2 x 1 8" = 1 4") = 9 5 8" Width of "" - "" route depth - under hang: " - 1 2" - 1 8" = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better Oval size - Can be whatever you feel appropriate Our size was approximately 5 7 8" x 4 3 8" See diagram "" for bit setup. Make a template for your oval size. We used 3 4" wood for the template to give us some safety height. We used double faced tape to attach to the actual piece. Cut out oval using a bandsaw or jigsaw to within 1 16" of template. Using a pattern bit, route the oval to finish size. Leave template attached while routing the actual profile on oval. We ran multiple passes by replacing top bearing with larger bearings, working down to the original bearing. Suggested Bearings: ITEM # A B C OUTSIDE INSIDE DEPTH " 3 16" 3 16" " 3 16" 3 16" " 3 16" 3 16" " 3 16" 3 16" " 3 16" 3 16" " 3 16" 3 16" " 3 16" 3 16"

6 Route Depth The Base Carcass width + (2 x route depth) + (2 x overhang): 9 7 8" + (2 x 9 16" = 1 1 8") + (2 x 5 16" = 5 8") = " finish Carcass depth + door thickness + hinge gap + route depth + overhang: 4 3 4" + 5 8" " " " = " See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better results by running multiple passes by moving the fence back until the final pass aligns with the bearing. Length of "" + (2 x "" route depth): " + (2 x 9 16" = 1 1 8") = " finish Width of "" + ("" route depth): " " = 6 7 8" See diagram "" for bit setup. We received better results by running multiplepasses by moving the fence back until the final pass is achieved. Alternate Feet We choose the profile in diagram "" to make our feet. Start with a large size board and route all four sides with profile. Then cut off each corner of the board at a 45 degree angle to create a triangle. The feet can be placed with profile facing up or down depending on your own taste! Route all edges Miter all 4 corners after routing Flip ""

7 Alternate Back Use the below pattern to cut out the back if you are using a movement with chimes. Door Edge Profiles: Rabbet for glass Rabbet for glass INSIDE OF FRAME OUTSIDE OF FRAME

8 Turncraft Bracket Clock Recommendations # Using our Multi-Form bit # Please note: Tops are made from carcass measurements and should be used as approximates. They should be fine tuned as needed. 2. Tops and Bases Here is another variation to transform your clock. Make your tops and bases with profiles on all four edges for 360 degree viewing. This will also reduce the risk of tear out during routing. You will need to add enough stock to the width of your lumber to account for the extra route edge. Making ovals with a Multi-Form bit... For safety purposes, we ran multiple passes by replacing top bearing with larger bearings, working down to the original bearing. Our oval template was made out of 3/4" stock in order to guide the bearing against the template which was double faced onto our stock. Tip: Add a handle to the template or use a push block for safety. It is also suggested that you use a starter pin or fence when routing oval. 3. Dial Frame We suggest using solid wood stock here. This looks much more professional and aesthetically pleasing than plywood. Plane stock to 1/4". The clock face you have selected will help determine the width of the 1/4" stock you install for the dial frame. Tip: Cut the strips to length after face frame has been glued up. Fit into the 1/4" dado, stile sides first, rails second, gluing into place. 4. Back For another aesthetically pleasing look, we suggest using solid wood for the back. Get creative with your scroll saw or jigsaw to cut a pattern for sound waves and eliminate the rectangular opening. 5. Dial Board If a 21/64" drill bit is not in your inventory, use a 5/16" bit and a rattail file. 6. Counter bore for the bail handle This is done more easily after gluing up all three of the profiled top pieces. Tip: Drill the dadoed clock housing top then assemble that section of the housing. Then place the finished top in the proper orientation and use a pencil to mark the location for the top counter bores. Tip: Since screw lengths may vary in length for the bail handle, it is suggested that you put a screw in one of the bail bases then determine the exact depth of the counter bore. Plan correction: The plan calls for a 3/16" diameter hole for the bail handle. You will actually need a 1/4" hole for the bail handle to seat properly.