Geography of Surfing: Final Exam Review
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1 Geography questions: Geography of Surfing: Final Exam Review Where is it? Why is it there? What is it? Are proximate things influencing it? How long will it be there? Stuart H. Sweeney Is it impacting its environment or other things nearby? Department of Geography University of California, Santa Barbara Fundamental Themes Winter 2007 A middle latitude cyclone A point and place in time What is he holding and what does it represent? When and where is he? What happened to objects of that type? dij 35o N, 175o W Relative location?, characteristics?, processes? Economic organization of surfboard manufacturing Price (P) Production and consumption Foam Blank (Polyurethane, Polystyrene) S Shaper Petroleum? artwork Laminating Glue (Polyester Resin, Epoxy) P* Glasser D Q* Quantity (Q) Silica Laminating Skin (Fiberglass, Wood, Graphite) fins
2 Spatial organization of surfboard manufacturing Pre-modern history: 1936 first commercial production of fiberglass, 1940 first commercial production of rigid polyurethane foam. Redondo Beach Laguna Niguel Wilmington Santa Cruz 1960s 1970s 1980s 1990s 2000s Noll Noll/E.T. Clark Retail & garage 2005 Black Monday Weber China French Cobra Thailand 75,000 Surftech Boards Spatial Economics: Global, Regional, and Local Spatial economics / Cross-scale interactions Global - international trade - offshore production / outsourcing Regional - interregional variation within country - variation in what? Local - intra-urban variation - retailing, noxious industries (zoning) Geography of Surfing: Mission Are you excited about learning at UCSB? Do you know more about Geography, as a field, than you did in week 1? When you surf, plan a surf trip, decide where to paddle-out, choose your next surfboard. will you do that differently because of this course? UCSB Geography Nationally ranked #2 in most recent survey BA and BS degrees (MLPS) Major themes: Earth System Science: bio-physical processes Human-Environment Relations: perceive, modify, interact Modeling, Measurement, and Computation: GIS, RS, insitu measurement, spatial statistics. Formal emphases: Geographic Information Science (GIScience) Population, Development, and the Environment (coming soon!) Final Exam Structure 30% Cultural history and diffusion 30% Ocean waves and forecasting 40% Surf Industry and the environment Similar exam structure as midterms but longer: True / False Multiple Choice Regional Geography / Maps Fundamental themes and concepts Cultural history and diffusion Diffusion (review Gould reading) Cultural geography concepts (sociofact, mentafact ) Cultural history of surfing with emphasis on major players (emergence of Polynesia, London, Ford, Freeth, Kahanamoku, Blake) from surfboard mfg (Blake, Simmons, Noll,, Clark, ) Differences in cultural context of Hawaii, Australia, California.
3 Ocean waves and forecasting Time-Scales & Spatial-Scales Scale-dependent processes Series of conceptual models Solar Radiation (Heat) Air Temp Wind Wave Air Temp / Circulation: Hadley-Ferrel model Wind: How to determine wind speed? (PGF, CF, SF ) Waves: Propogation, Dispersion, Refraction Forecasting: Putting it all together. Reading / interpreting charts and graphs. I. Global atmospheric circulation Global circulation Solar energy budget Four stage model leading to Hadley-Ferrel model 1. landless stationary (convection, hemispheric flow) rotating (Coriolis, 6 wind bands 0, 30, 60, 90) seasons (23.5, amplifies temp diff) land (specific heat capacity, further amplification) II. Wind, Pressure, and Storm Depressions Wind speed = f(cf,pgf) if aloft = f(cf,pgf,sf) if surface Formation of Depressions: Surface Winds (Horizontal Pressure Variation, Friction) Wind Speed Rotation of winds near highs and lows, S vs N Aloft (geostrophic) versus surface Convergence and divergence zones (surface and aloft)
4 Formation of Depressions: Surface Winds (Horizontal Pressure Variation, Friction) Wind Speed III. Waves Wave characteristics (T, f, L, H, H/L) Wave form versus particle (orbital until d<l/2) Single numbers versus distribution H 1/3, L, D p Directional spectrum, period histogram Conceptual understanding of wave generation displacing and restoring forces equilibrium state, fetch limited, duration limited equilibrium state energy distribution linear growth, exponential growth, saturation Characterizing and describing waves Basic terminology Characterizing and describing waves Wind Waves Wind Frictional Stress Energy T = period = time interval between two peaks passing a fixed point f = (1/T) = number of peaks passing a fixed point per second. L = wavelength H = wave height Characterizing and describing waves Directional spectrum and wave field Source: III. Waves Waves after they leave the storm area Wave speed, organization or energy, dissipation of energy Celerity of propagation, deep water c=1.56 T Equations vary with depth (L/2, L/20) c=l/t, L=cT Organization: Radial dispersion phase, group speed c g =c/2 near versus far from storm Dissipation: Circumferential dispersion (30-45 degrees)
5 IV. Wave Climate and Forecasting Surfer questions: When will waves arrive from a storm at a given location? How big will the waves be when they arrive? Where should I surf? Will the waves break at one of the local beaches/reefs? Alternative approaches to answering the questions: Long time scale (long-distance trip planning): wave climate Near term (surf next week? tomorrow?): forecasting - Experience / local knowledge - On-line materials (Wavewatch III, surface analysis, CDIP) - Forecasting hobbiest Surf Industry and Environment Production / Consumption in space (recommend reading Globalisation and development Potter et al. in reader) History of surfboard construction changes in materials, mfg process, labor mix major innovations and their implications Economic / Spatial organization of production Environmental evaluation of alternative products / production regimes. Economic organization of surfboard manufacturing Petroleum? Silica Foam Blank (Polyurethane, Polystyrene) Laminating Glue (Polyester Resin, Epoxy) Laminating Skin (Fiberglass, Wood, Graphite) Shaper Glasser fins artwork Spatial organization of surfboard manufacturing Pre-modern history: 1936 first commercial production of fiberglass, 1940 first commercial production of rigid polyurethane foam. Redondo Beach Laguna Niguel Wilmington Santa Cruz 1960s 1970s 1980s 1990s Noll Noll/E.T. Clark Retail & garage Weber French Cobra Thailand 2000s 2005 Black Monday China 75,000 Surftech Boards
6 Spatial organization of surfboard manufacturing s Blanks: Single technology, near monopoly, few production sites Shaping: Surfer/Shaper pairing, Local market shapers (Bark), relatively easy market entry. Master-apprentice training. Glassing: Under same roof? One glasser for several shapers? Artwork, design element s Blanks: Multiple technology, multiple locations Shaping: Difficult entry. Capital-intensive, large scale. Glassing: Nuisance/hazardous zoning, concentration, vertical integration. Environmental impacts: What s in a surfboard? Toxic chemicals - Regulation / Mitigation Polyester resins -Federal hazardous air pollutant -Respiratory, skin, and eye irritant -Not classified human carcinogenicity Toluene Diisocyanate (polyurethane foam) - Reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen - Spleen, liver, ovaries, pancreas, Recycling?? Regional Geography / Maps Australia and the Pacific Islands (from part I) World storm regions (from part II) Central America and Caribbean (Colas: Intro, Costa Rica, El Salvador) Thank You! East Asia (Colas: Intro, Bali, G-land, Mentawai Islands)
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