Original Article. Effectiveness of a specialized climbing method for beginners on the physical and technical fitness of 8-10 year old children

Transcription

1 Journal of Phyical Education and Sport (JPES), 18 Supplement iue 5, Art 308, pp , 2018 online ISSN: X; p-issn: ; ISSN - L = JPES Original Article Effectivene of a pecialized climbing method for beginner on the phyical and technical fitne of 8-10 year old children MILEN VIDINOVSKI 1, STEFANIYA BELOMAZHEVA-DIMITROVA 2 1,2 Department of Theory and Methodology of Phyical Education, St. Cyril and St. Methodiu Univerity of Veliko Tarnovo, BULGARIA Publihed online: November 30, 2018 (Accepted for publication November 20, 2018) DOI: /jpe Abtract: In recent year climbing ha become more and more popular. It i increaingly becoming an attractive and pectacular port. Evidence for thi trend i the growing trend of climbing competition being held on bigger and bigger overhang and ceiling, a well a the upcoming debut of the climbing port at the Olympic Game That i why the preparation of the climber i turning into a eriou problem that require reponible attitude and rationality in the application of different training method. Thi applie epecially to the training of children, beginner climber, ince childhood i a time in which motor habit are being formed and the proper technique of climbing i being tudied. The purpoe of the tudy i to check the effectivene of a pecialized climbing method for beginner on the phyical and technical fitne of 8-10 year old children. Key word: climbing, phyical development, pecialized training, climbing methodology for beginner. Introduction Nowaday port climbing ha become more popular throughout all over the world. Sport climbing i an extreme port where people climb an artificial wall with variou artificial hold uing their hand and feet (Kyungik, Lee, Heo, Shin, Son & Kim, 2015). Sport climbing i alo unique porting activity, in that the role of the upper limb and the predominantly vertical motion ditinguih it from all other land-baed movement (Quaine & Martin, 1999; Anderon & Anderon, 2015). Evidence for thi i the tendency for race to be held on bigger and bigger overhang and ceiling, the increaed public interet, a well a the adoption of port climbing in the Olympic programme and it debut in 2020 in Tokyo. In thi regard, the climbing training proce ha become an even more reponible proce, requiring rationality and expedience in the application of the training method. Even more important i the problem of the training of novice climber at early age becaue it i at that age when proper technique i built and motor habit are formed. In climbing, emphai i placed primarily on developing phyical trength, endurance and flexibility, but in order to achieve good reult, a number of other motor kill are neceary pychological flexibility, rapid-repone capability and fat deciion-making, excellent command of climbing technique and other (Watt, 2004). According to Draper et al. (2008) different type and tyle of climbing differ in intenity, duration, method ued for protection and terrain. Thi may et different phyical and technical demand and may induce different phyiological and pychological repone (Draper, Jone, Fryer, Hodgon & Blackwell, 2008). Climbing require ue of a ignificant portion of whole body aerobic capacity. Increaing of climbing difficulty and climbing more teeply angled climb require ue of anaerobic energetic pathway (Sheel, 2004). In climbing performance i not related linearly with the peed of climbing (thi affect to the leat extend the peed competitive dicipline). An optimal climbing peed hould be achieved during an acent in order to limit the effort time and fatigue, repectively (Michailov, 2014). An experienced climber can uually be ditinguihed from a novice climber by oberving the number of hand placement ued on a climb: the experienced climber will uually pick the mot advantageou handhold the firt time while the novice will need to eek out and tet more hold before committing to move. Accuracy alo ditinguihe expert from novice climber. Expert will place their hand or feet preciely on handhold and foothold, wherea a novice might be more apt to over or under reach for hold, neceitating recovery from the inefficient effort. Finally, intenity i alo important. Expert climber ue the leat force neceary to grap a hold (Fleming & Hört, 2010). Technique training are related to ue of hand and feet which i important for beginner in climbing, hence we need effective training content (Kyungik, Lee, Heo, Shin, Son & Kim, 2015). Sport climbing with children and adolecent, both in other countrie and in Bulgaria, i developing dynamically. While in the firt year of democracy in Bulgaria (ince 1989) mainly peed competition were Correponding Author: STEFANIYA BELOMAZHEVA-DIMITROVA, tefania@uni-vt.bg

2 organized, now the age limit for training and competition in the "lead climbing" and "bouldering" categorie i progreively declining. Thi ugget the ue of a wide range of mean of influencing the adolecent climber' body, taking into account their gender, age and individual characteritic. The purpoe of cientific reearch i to check the effectivene of a pecialized climbing method for beginner on the phyical and technical fitne of 8-10 year old children. Material and Method For the purpoe of the tudy, a tet battery wa ued which included a total of 13 tet divided into the following group: 1. Indicator for phyical development. 2. Indicator of phyical fitne. 3. Specific phyical qualitie. Tet protocol, unit of meaurement, accuracy of meaurement and direction of increaing of meaurement are preented on Table 1. Table 1. Tet protocol, unit of meaurement, accuracy of meaurement and direction of meaurement Indicator Unit of Accuracy of Direction meaurement meaurement increaing 1. Height - cm 2. Weight - kg kg 3. BMI kg/m² Manual Dynamometry /right hand/ kg 5. Manual Dynamometry /left hand/ cm 6. Lifting of the body from upine poition to tanding poture for Long jump - cm 8. Bend forward - cm cm 1-9. Throwing of dene ball - m cm 10. Hang on folded arm and elbow - lever number 11. Sample for pecial endurance of hand grip - lever block 12. Hang on two hand with an open grip to a 2 cm until exhaution 13. Hang on two hand with an open grip to a 2 cm min 0, of The tet were conducted at the beginning of September 2017 and at the end of May The tet battery, which wa applied at the beginning and end of the tudy, conited of a total of 13 indicator of phyical development, phyical fitne and pecific phyical qualitie. Contingent of the tudy During the port-pedagogical experiment, a tudy wa carried out in a group of 30 children aged 8-10 year, who were all novice climber. A methodology for initial climbing training wa applied within 8 month during the chool year. We applied method of reearch tracking the phyical development, the phyical fitne and the pecific preparedne of the children. All children were enrolled in a beginner group in Alpine Club "Edelwei 74" - city of Kilifarevo and Alpine Club "Trapezita 1957" - city of Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. Specialized climbing method for beginner An eight-month climbing program for beginner aged 8-10 year ha been developed. During the training, the tudent are fully ecure and afe. The training method include demontration and repetition of the exercie. The coure focue on the ue of climbing technique, the proper handling of technical equipment, the proper implementation of climbing exercie and activitie. The exercie are organized in the form of training, which are held three time a week for 90 minute with the following tructure: 1. Preparatory part. It tak are to organize the learner, to draw their attention to the requirement of the training and the coach, to prepare the body for phyical loading by mean of general exercie, in which joint are involved. Duration: 15 min. 2. Main part. The tak are related to learning and improving the technique of the hand and the feet when moving on an artificial wall or rock for different racing dicipline, pivot point, viewing a route without and with time meauring, a well a improving the phyical qualitie of the trainee. Duration: 60 min. 3. Final part. It include exercie for calming, relaxing and recovery of the body. Duration: 15 min The detailed decription of the content of the experimental methodology for climbing training for beginner can be found in Table 2 and the legend below

3 Table 2. Programme for climbing training for beginner Month Monday Tueday Wedneday Friday Saturday firt month Module 1 Module 2 Module 3 econd month Module 4 Module 5 Module 6 third month Module 7 Module 8 Module 9 Module 10 fourth month Module 11 Module 12 Module 13 Module 14 fifth month Module 15 Module 16 Module 17 Module 18 ixth month Module 19 Module 20 Module 21 Module 22 eventh month Module 23 Module 24 Module 25 Module 26 eighth month Module 27 Module 28 Module 29 Module 30 Legend to Table 2 Firt month Module 1: Baic climbing technique Module 2: Baic technique of climbing and afety Module 3: Climbing technique for a "boulder" wall. Second month Module 4: Climbing technique for "lead climbing". Learning afety with top roping. Module 5: Climbing technique for a "boulder" wall. Module 6: Improving the climbing technique. Exercie for qualitie. Third month Module 7: Improving climbing technique. Speed climbing. Module 8: Climbing technique and tactic Module 9: Technique for "boulder" climbing. Exercie for qualitie. Module 10: Technique of climbing on natural tructure (rock) Fourth month Module 11: Improving the climbing technique. Learning climbing with bottom roping Module 12: Climbing technique and tactic Module 13: Technique for "boulder" climbing Module 14: Technique and tactic of climbing on natural tructure (rock) Fifth month Module 15: Climbing technique. Learning the technique of afety with bottom roping Module 16: Climbing technique and tactic. Improving the climbing technique for "difficulty" Module 17: Improving the technique of "boulder" and "peed" climbing Module 18: Technique and tactic of climbing on natural tructure (rock) Six month Module 19: Improve climbing technique and afety with bottom roping. Exercie for the quality "trength". Module 20: Climbing technique and tactic. Exercie for the quality "endurance". Module 21: Improving technique and tactic for boulder climbing. Module 22: Improving technique and tactic in climbing on natural tructure (rock). Seventh month Module 23: Improving the technique of climbing with bottom roping. Improving the technique for "peed" climbing. Exercie for qualitie. Module 24: Improving technique and tactic in climbing for "difficulty". Exercie for qualitie. Module 25: Training in the regulation of variou racing dicipline ("peed", "difficulty" and "boulder") Module 26: Improving technique and tactic when climbing on natural tructure (rock). Baic training in rappelling and organizing "fixture" Eight month Module 27: Improving the technique and tactic of "bouldering" climbing. Exercie for qualitie. Module 28: Improving climbing technique and tactic for "difficulty". Exercie for qualitie. Module 29: Improving technique and tactic for peed climbing. Exercie for qualitie Module 30: Competition Reult The data collected have been tatitically proceed and ubjected to comparative analyi. In order to etablih the tatitical reliability of the indicator growth between the two tudie, a comparative t-criterion of Student for dependent ample wa applied. The reult of the econd tet hould provide an anwer to the quetion to what extent the applied methodology ha a contructive effect on the phyical development, the phyical fitne and the pecific preparedne of the people participating in the experiment. The reliability of the 13 indicator between the two tet i preented in Table 3. A tatitically ignificant increae can be oberved in 12 of the indicator. Table 3. Credibility of indicator growth in the experimental group (ta = 2.04) I tet II tet Indicator N X1 S1 X2 S2 D d % t Pt % 1. Height ,43 6,34 134,87 7,10 4,43 3,40 13,39 99,9 2. Weight - kg 30 29,00 6,14 30,70 6,67 1,70 5,86 6,25 99,9 3. BMI 30 16,90 2,64 16,70 2,41 0,20 1,18 1,62 88,40 4. Manual Dynamometry /right hand/ 30 6,17 3,37 8,03 4,00 1,87 30,27 10,91 99,9 5. Manual Dynamometry /left hand/ 30 5,03 3,23 6,40 3,63 1,37 27,15 9,79 99,9 6. Lifting of the body from upine poition to tanding poture for ,67 4,25 29,53 5,46 7,87 36,31 18,04 99,9 7. Long jump - cm ,33 17,64 154,70 19,04 8,37 5,72 15,96 99,9 8. Bend forward - cm 30 96,83 3,73 94,87 3,62 1,97 2,03 9,06 99,

4 9. Throwing of dene ball - m 30 2,79 0,53 3,15 0,54 0,36 12,77 12,82 99,9 10. Hang on folded arm and elbow - lever 30 28,70 12,28 109,93 49,30 81,23 283,04 10,56 99,9 11. Sample for pecial endurance of hand grip - lever block 30 3,73 4,33 14,37 10,06 10,63 284,82 7,75 99,9 12. Hang on two hand with an open grip to a 2 cm until exhaution 30 12,20 6,90 52,87 26,46 40,67 333,33 10,42 99,9 13. Hang on two hand with an open grip to a 2 cm 30 26,57 12,88 119,80 71,32 93,23 350,94 8,10 99,9 The reult of the comparative analyi of the invetigated indicator at the beginning and at the end of the experiment i preented in Figure 1. Fi.e 1. Significance of the difference between the average level of 13 of the teted indicator in the experimental group at the end of the experiment Dicuion The critical value of the Student t-criterion for the ample at 95% confidence probability i t=2.04. The empirical value of Student' t-criterion for dependent ample are very high - from 6.25 to (exception i t3=1.62), which mean that the oberved difference before and after the experiment are tatitically reliable. The analyi of Figure 1 how that the experimental group had poitive change in regard to the 12 of the teted indicator, which i confirmed by a 95% confidence probability of the high value of the Student' t- criterion. Only with the indicator aociated with the body ma index, the confidence probability i le than 95%, which, in our opinion, i due to the fact that the participant in the experiment are children aged 8 to 10 year and none of the children were found to be overweight at the beginning of the experiment. From the data in Table 2, it can be een that during the pedagogical experiment there wa a ignificant development in all the tudied indicator. The comparative analyi of the increae in the average value of the tudied anthropometric indicator howed that the novice climbing competitor increaed their average height by 4.43 cm and in a ignificantly leer extent the weight increaed by an average of 1.70 kg. According to Michailov et al. (2009) the height i not a limiting factor of performance a taller climber may have an advantage when the ditance between the handhold are big but may alo have a diadvantage if the handhold and foot hold are ituated too cloe. The increae of the length of the body naturally affected the BMI reult, which decreaed by 0.20 compared to the firt tet of the group (Table 3). Thi indicator i important for the ucceful development of the people practicing climbing and it decreae i a ign that there are no overweight children. The analyi of the data in Table 3 how an increae in the average value of indicator providing information about the level of development of overall phyical fitne. The mot ignificant are the change in the level of exploive force development of the lower limb (d=8,37) and the abdominal mucularity (d=7,87). The greatet increae i oberved in indicator providing information about the pecific phyical qualitie. In the trength tet for the upper limb and the houlder girdle, the increae in average value wa d=81.83, with the pecific tatic trength endurance of the finger in the open grip - d=93.23, and for the pecific endurance tet of hand grip d= According to Epaña-Romero et al. (2009) climber overcome coniderable reitance (their body weight) the type of endurance in climbing i the trength endurance which wa proved to be a performance factor of highet importance. Meaured through climbing time until exhaution it correlated trongly with climbing performance. Both qualitie are important for climbing, epecially in the "boulder" and "peed" dicipline

5 Thi indicate that the training methodology applied in thi group ha ignificantly influenced the level of pecific climbing kill in children and i upported by Pt> 95% in all tet except for BMI (Table 3, Figure 1). The reult of the application of the methodology developed by u, which include many general, preparatory and pecialized exercie, i that it increae the level of motor kill and the pecific preparedne. The mot ignificant i the increae in indicator providing information about the level of development of pecific phyical qualitie. A ignificant increae wa oberved for indicator 10, 12 and 13 (hang on folded arm and elbow - lever, hang on two hand with an open grip to a 2 cm until exhaution and hang on two hand with an open grip to a 2 cm) repectively d=49.03, d=23.57 and d= We believe that thi increae i due to two fact: firt, climbing i a port that ha a very poitive effect on the mucle of the upper limb and the houlder girdle, and econd, that the experimental methodology ha a priority impact in thi direction. According to Schweizer et al. (2007) within the forearm muculature, concentric writ flexion may be conidered a the bet predictor for climbing performance. Fu et al. (2009) conducted in their tudy that the grip force hould be applied a economically and a energy aving a poible. Comparing the reult providing information about pecific phyical qualitie and climbing technique of the children participating in the experiment at the end of the impact we can conclude that the method applied by u ha a high level of effectivene. Concluion 1. A a reult of the applied experimental climbing methodology for 8-10 year old novice climber with duration 8 month, the level of their phyical working capacity and their pecific fitne ignificantly increaed. 2. There are tatitically ignificant difference in the growth between the initial and the final tet in 12 of the 13 tudied indicator, which how that the applied methodology for the initial climbing training i effective and coniderably contribute to the improvement of the children' fitne. 3. The greatet increae wa oberved in the tudied indicator referring to the pecific phyical fitne qualitie of 8-10-year-old climber. Reference Anderon, M., Anderon, M. (2015). The Rock Climber Traning Manual: A Guide to Continuou Improvement. Fixed Pin Publihing. LLC, econd edition, ISBN Draper, N., Jone, G.A., Fryer, S., Hodgon, C., Blackwell, G. (2008). Effect of an on-ight lead on the phyiological and pychological repone to rock climbing. Journal of Sport Science and Medicine, 7(4): Epaña-Romero V, Ortega Porcel FB, Artero EG, et al. (2009). Climbing time to exhaution i a determinant of climbing performance in high-level port climber. European Journal of Applied Phyiology, 107 (5): Fleming, R.K., Hört, E.J. (2010). Behavior analyi and port climbing, Journal of Behavioral Health and Medicine, 1: Fu, F.K., Niegl, G. (2009). Intrumented climbing hold and performance analyi in port climbing. Sport Technology, 1 (6): Kyungik, C., Lee, E.Y., Heo, M.H., Shin, K.C., Son, J., Kim, D. (2015). Analyi of climbing poture and movement in port climbing for realitic 3D climbing animation. Procedia Engineering, 112: Michailov M.L. (2014). Workload characteritic, performance limiting factor and method for trength and endurance training in rock climbing. Medicina Sportiva, 18 (3): Michailov ML, Mladenov LV, Schoeffl VR. (2009). Anthropometric and trength characteritic of world-cla boulderer. Med Sport, 13 (4): Schweizer, A., Furrer, M.(2007). Correlation of forearm trength and port climbing performance. Iokinetic and Exercie Science, 15: Sheel, A.W. (2004). Phyiology of port rock climbing, Britih Journal of Sport Medicine, 38: Quaine F, Martin L. A (1999). Biomechanical tudy of equilibrium in port rock climbing. Gait & Poture, 10: Watt PB. (2004). Phyiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Phyiology, 91: