BELAY SCHOOL FOR APPLETON AREA SCHOOL DISTRICT

Transcription

1 BELAY SCHOOL FOR APPLETON AREA SCHOOL DISTRICT CLIMBING WALLS AND HIGH ROPES CHALLENGE COURSE Rck climbing is a sprt where yu are always trying t push yur limits. Expanding yur cmfrt zne is a rck climber s gal and gratificatin. But a climber is nly as gd as their partner. A strng bnd f trust is required between climbing partners and a climber must have enrmus faith in the belayer t make that lunge they therwise wuldn t r grab that pcket that lks way t small. Rck climbing is a team sprt and a slidly trained team can g t great heights. Climbing Rpes Rpe-lgy Crd : Lifeline f ur Prgram A climbing rpe is typically abut 75, r 105 feet, lng. Climbing rpes have changed greatly with the intrductin f newer materials. Tday's rpes are strnger, lighter, and thinner and cme with different characteristics: Tw Types f Rpes Static rpes are mre durable, mre resistant t abrasin, and lack elasticity. They shuld nly be emplyed where shck lading never ccurs: rappelling (abseiling) r, spelunking. They can be used t belay a climber fr 3 t 1 system and Flying Squirrel in adventure educatin. Hwever, a lead climber shuld never emply a Static rpe: in a fall, the rpe lacks the required elasticity t minimize injury. Manufacturers typically use nly tw clrs fr the sheath. Dynamic (Climbing) Rpes stretch under a shck lad, absrb sme f the shck frce and prtect the climber. They are designed t belay a lead climber r fr tp-rping. There is 8% stretch in 11mm rpe. An 11 mm dynamic rpe is used n all Rpes curse and educatinal settings and 10.6mm used fr indr climbing wall. The verhead fall prtectin is apprved by OSESH and exceeds 5,000. There is a minimum f 8 ft climb height d t the stretch under a lad. Manufacturers typically use three r mre clrs fr the sheath t distinguish them frm static rpes.

2 Links T read mre abut climbing rpes and their care g t the Outdr Adventure Netwrk Article n Climbing Rpe; Indr Climbing's Article n Rck Climbing Rpes; r Rck Climbing's article n Climbing Rpes Explained. Tw parts f the Rpe and Lgging f Rpe 1. Kern mantle ~ inside cre f white fibers f rpe, gives strength t rpe 2. Sheath ~ utside cvering (usually clrful) 3. Spls f 660 ft., cut t length fr event, 4. Rpes must be labeled with clr tape fr identificatin 5. Rpe Lgs will be kept t keep track f number f climbs. Rpes will be retired at 1000 climbs r defective. Test fr Integrity 1. Test fr integrity; slide rpe thrugh index finger and thumb feeling fr: flat spts, tears, bugles, flicks, if questin a defect have anther persn check spt. 2. Always check rpe befre (unciling) and after (ciling) climbing sessin 3. Stre rpe in dry/cl place if wet r need t wash use Wlite and air dryer. 4. Dn t step n rpe! When dirt gets grund in rpe it will start t abrade the fibers frm within. Walking n rpe is a disrespectful t rpe! Call ut Pizza when yu catch smene stepping n rpe. When using utdr can use a tarp t cil rpe n whenever pssible. 5. Keep rpes away frm: petrleum prducts, direct sunlight, suntan ltin/screen, r bug spray. Use hand wipes r baby wipes after applying sunscreen r bug spray. Extra rpe infrmatin Climbing rpe lgs shuld be kept current and accurate! All events the rpes will be retired at 1000 climbs except Pamper ple (Leap f Faith), which will be retired at 350 due t the shear frce and lad n this rpe. A retired rpe it must be sprayed with BLACK paint r use black tape and cut up. They may be recycled fr handrails, jump rpes, but NOT fr climbing. Lastly, rpes that have sat unused fr 3 years must be retired. Persnnel are the weakest link in the system! Equipment (mechanical) des nt fail peple d! Rck Climbing Knts & Knt Craft Knts are central t climbing systems. They jin everything - frm the crd tied n yur cams t the rpe tied n yur waist - and they help t create belaying and self-rescue systems. In a sprt as cmplex as rck climbing, yu might expect that yu wuld have t master many dzen different specialized knts, yet nearly the ppsite is true. If yu learn just a few knts and their variatins, yu can have a lng and successful climbing career. While there are a hst f ther knts available, we will nly learn the mst fundamental knts and their variatins. A few terms are useful as yu learn these knts Live r wrking end: the end f the rpe being used, the end yu are hlding in yur hand Standing r running end: the part f the rpe running tward the far end; if yu are tying int the rpe, the live end is the end yu are tying int and the standing end is the end f the rpe that lies in a pile at yur feet Bight: a pinched bend in the rpe; the strands d nt crss

3 Lp: a bend in which the strands crss Tail: the live end f rpe left ver after tying a knt, and sticking ut f the knt On a bight: a knt frmed in the middle f a rpe Dressing: the act f making a knt neat and tight Cmpnents f a Knt & Additinal Knt Infrmatin Great Resurce fr Knts Wikipedia, the free encyclpedia. This site has animatins f knts and histry, thery, and mre. Check it ut! " Additinal Knt Sites Tie knt Grg's Animated Knts Hw t tie ver 35 knts Internatinal Guild f Knt Tyers Knt Tying Ntatin, by Peter Suber. Nt fr beginners. Knts n the Web, an extensive cllectin f links, cvering knt tying, knt thery, and knt art Life n a Line, a free nline bk abut undergrund rpe rescue which discusses varius knts in detail with regard t their strength etc. The Ntable Knt Index Knt Tying Vide Cmmercial vide/dvd n knt tying. Gallery f animated knts Pictures f Cmmn Knts Learning abut tying and tplgy Activity: Cmmn Thread Types f Climbing Knts essential fr Belaying Dem Knt: Whle, Part, Whle Bwline n a Bight - It s a gd knt because:

4 It has redundancy It has tw bights t clip int which reduces the shear frce, Easy t check because if wrng it s a slip knt When laded the knt is easily untied. Bwline n the Bight This is anther duble-lp variatin f the basic Bwline. T tie this knt, create a small lp in a dubled rpe and bring the end f the dubled rpe up thrugh the small lp (picture 1). This creates tw big lps which hang belw the knt (where the basic Bwline has nly ne big lp). Nw pen up the end f the dubled rpe and bring it dwn and arund ver the tw main lps (picture 2), and then cntinue bringing it up abve the small initial lp (picture 3). Dress and set the knt (picture 4). Nw it lks like a Duble-Kntted Bwline but with tw lps instead f nly ne If yu knw hw t tie the basic Bwline then the Bwline n the Bight is fairly easy t remember nce yu get the hang f it. It is easy t tie and easy t dress, it is easy t untie after it has held a lad, and the tw lps can be re-sized fairly easily. It is generally cnsidered t have the same strength rating as the basic Bwline.

5 Bwline n a bight: Bwline n a Bight Step #1 Start with a bight f rpe. Step #2 Frm a lp by bringing the end ver the standing part. Step #3 Insert the end f the bight thrugh the lp.

6 Step #4 Grasp the end f the bight and bring it tward yu and dwn acrss the bttm f the lp. Step #5 With yur hand still n the end f the bight, drag it beneath all the material that makes up the lp s that it ends up behind the standing part. Finished Bwline n a Bight - Frnt View Pull n the lwer lp t pull the end f the bight snug against the riginal lp. Pull n the standing part t set the knt Finished Bwline n a Bight - Rear View Pull n the lwer lp t pull the end f the bight snug against the riginal lp. Pull n the standing part t set the knt

7 Bwline n a Bight Duble Overhand Stpper Knt Other names: Fisherman s knt, Safety knt r Back up knt Lcks bwline n a bight Get tail ut f the way f a climber Key wrds: Wrap ver thumbnail, wrap arund first digit f thumb, and replace thumb with tail (wrking end) and pull Stpper Knt The stpper knt is very handy in several situatins. Fr instance yu culd tie ne in the end f the rpe it stps it unexpectedly passing thrugh the belay/abseil device. Use it t backup yur bwline n a bight knt. Tw stpper knts are used t make the duble fishermans fr jining tw rpes. T tie a stpper knt in the end f the rpe, fllw these steps. Step 1: Frm a lp.

8 Step 2: Frm a secnd lp behind the first ne, as shwn. Step 3: Pass the end back thrugh bth lps. Step 4: Pull tight. The Duble Overhand Stpper Knt Autmatic: Slw Fast T tie the knt mve the muse alng the numbers 1-8.

9 Key wrds: Wrap ver thumbnail, then wrap arund first digit f thumb t make an X, and replace thumb with tail (wrking end) and pull Putting n the Harness A facilitatr shuld always have their harness n fr the fllwing reasn: Need t be prepared t climb at anytime May need t set up r take dwn events May need t help dwn an individual that has frzen n an element with this a facilitatr shuld try and make every pssible attempt t talk that persn dwn the ple. May need t perfrm a rescue f a participant n an element. Helpful infrmatin abut the Climbing Harness A harness cnsists f a waist belt, leg lps, a buckle, and, generally, a belay lp. There are three basic styles: alpine, fixed leg lps, and adjustable. Harnesses f all types cme with gear lps attached t the waist belt. Adjustable harnesses have buckles n the leg lps as well as the waist belt, s they will fit ver just abut anything. They are a little heavier than harnesses with fixed leg lps and usually nt as cmfrtable, but the advantage f adjustability ften utweighs these disadvantages. Alpine r diaper-style harnesses d nt have any leg lps t step thrugh, s they can be put n While yu are wearing skis r crampns. The leg lps are frmed after the waist belt has been secured by pulling straps up and arund the thighs. They are great fr lnger climbs n which the ability t drp the leg lps may be imprtant. They als fit ver a wide variety f clthing, s are great fr summer rck climbing as well as winter climbing. Harnesses with fixed leg lps are the mst ppular fr rck climbing. They fit precisely ver the clthes wrn fr rck climbing, usually have padded waist belts, and are the lightest and mst cmfrtable harnesses. They d nt adjust, hwever, s they will prbably nt fit ver all the clthing needed fr winter climbing. Once the style f harness has been selected, wrk t get the right fit. Chse a harness primarily n fit. The thigh diameter, waist size, and rise (the vertical dimensin between the leg lps and waist) all must cmbine t fit yur individual requirements. On alpine and adjustable harnesses, the nly decisin is t buy ne with the prper size f waist belt. When the harness is prperly sized, there is still sme rm n either side f the buckle t either tighten r lsen it. If yu chse an adjustable harness that is t small, it may nt buckle safely ver winter clthing; if it is t large, it may nt cinch dwn enugh ver a pair f shrts. On harnesses with fixed leg lps, be certain t fit the harness ver the clthing yu will be wearing when yu climb. The waist belt shuld tighten in the middle f its adjustment range and the leg lps shuld he snug arund the upper thighs withut restricting mvement. The waist belt n any style f harness shuld be tightened enugh s that it cannt he pulled dwn ver the climber's hips. When yu try a harness n, hang in it ff a rpe, just as yu will really be using it. Whatever the chice in harness, use it accrding t the manufacturer's directins. Pay clse attentin especially t the prper use f the buckling systems and tie-in lcatins. Harness Safety Dynamics Cnstructin: Harnesses are made f nyln webbing f varius widths, and may be padded r nt. Strength Characteristics: Harnesses are designed t hld the frce f the mst severe fall with case. Hwever, they are nly strng enugh when they are sized crrectly and their buckles are threaded accrding t the

10 manufacturer's specificatins. Harnesses d nt fail because they are nt strng enugh, but because they are nt used prperly. Care: Check harnesses regularly fr wear r damage. With prper care, mst harnesses will last several years - check the manufacturer's recmmendatins. Climbing Carabiners Carabiners are the metal snap links that cnnect the parts f the climbing system. Climbing carabiners are made f steel r aluminum and cme in tw gate shapes: straight and bent. Straight-gate carabiners arc the mst versatile. They can he used fr any applicatin. Bent-gate carabiners have a dgleg in the gate that facilitates clipping the rpe. Fr this functin, they wrk very well. Bent-gate carabiners are t be used nly n the rpe-end f a sling r quickdraw. The bend in these carabiners that makes them easy t clip als makes it easy fr them t unclip themselves. Bent-gates can unclip themselves if clipped directly t a fixed, immbile pint like a blt r pitn. Be careful where they are used. Carabiners als are made in a variety f bdy styles. The mst versatile is the D r mdified D shape. They are strng and easy t use. Oval-shaped carabiners are gd fr racking, but nt as strng, and smetimes it is hard t figure ut where the gate pening is in a pinch. There are sme imprtant numbers embssed n the spine f carabiners. They arc the UIAA strength ratings. Carabiners are rated fr failure strength with the gate clsed in bth the majr (end-t-end) and minr (sidet-side) axes. I High numbers are a gd sign f a secure and durable carabiner, but smetimes at a premium price. Carabiners are rated in kilnewtns (kn), a measure f frce, which is mass times acceleratin. Remember, a falling climber is accelerating. Fr cnversin purpses, 1 kn is apprximately equal t the frce f 220 punds. Carabiner Safety Dynamics Cnstructin: Carabiners arc made f steel r aluminum and cme in many shapes and styles. The basic shapes are val, D, and bent-gate. The tw basic styles f carabiner are nn-lcking and lcking. Nn-lcking carabiners are used in mst parts f the system between belays: They cnnect quickdraws and slings t pieces f prtectin, and are used t link parts f the belay anchr. Lcking carabiners have a mechanism that lcks their gates in the clsed psitin. There are many variatins that incrprate a screw gate r sme kind f twisting lck mechanism. They are used when maximum security is needed: belaying, rappelling, clipping int an anchr, r creating a tp-rpe anchr. Strength Characteristics: Carabiners are capable f hlding far mre than they will ever need t. Hwever, they are nly strng enugh when they are laded alng their majr axis and with the gate clsed. Crsslading them (alng the minr axis) r lading them with their gate pen greatly increases the risk f failure. When climbing, ensure that n carabiner will be crssladed, bent ver an edge, r psitined in such a way that it culd accidentally pen. Care: Carabiners need n special care. Keep them clean and check them peridically fr excess wear (grves wrn frm rappelling r lwering, weakened gate springs, cracks, et cetera). A carabiner that has been drpped a few feet but has n visible cracks can be put back int service. Lcking Carabiners A lcking carabiner is an essential part f yur persnal climbing gear. It attaches a belay/rappel device t the harness. A gd chice fr the primary lcking carabiner is ne that is large, easy t handle, and pear-shaped (called HMS). These carabiners d everything.

11 These carabiners all have lcking mechanisms that help keep the gate clsed and prvide a much greater margin f safety ver nn-lcking carabiners. The lck n these carabiners cnsists f either a sleeve that screws ver the gate r sme type f spring-laded autlcking mechanism. Either type wrks well, althugh screw-gate lckers can ffer mre security. Climbing Helmet Helmets save lives and are cnsidered an essential piece f equipment when climbing. A helmet is an essential piece f all-arund equipment. They prtect the climber and belayer frm injury caused by falling bjects, and als ffers sme prtectin in case f a fall. Like the seat belt in yur car, yur climbing helmet is the single mst imprtant piece f safety equipment yu can use. Years ag helmets were heavy, uncmfrtable, and bring, but nw helmets are s light, cmfrtable, and stylish that there is n excuse fr nt wearing ne. Helmet Safety Dynamics Cnstructin: Mst helmets are made f either fiberglass r snic kind f plastic. Plastic helmets are lighter. Helmets are designed t prtect the climber frm the impact f falling bjects. Sme als prvide side impact prtectin when a climber falls. They all have a suspensin that keeps the helmet ff the climber's head and are held n the climber's head by a chin strap. Strength Characteristics: Climbing helmets are designed t absrb impact but they are nt magic. They cannt prtect the climber frm big rcks, chunks f ice, r lng, hard falls. Care: Check regularly fr cracking r delaminating. Fiberglass helmets last lnger, up t fifteen years if nt damaged. Because they break dwn chemically when expsed t ultravilet (UV) light, plastic helmets have a shrter life span, abut 10 years. Climbing Clthing Fr Rck climbing, dress in layers. Clthing fr the gym climber is simple: shrts, sweats, tights, anything that is easy t mve in. Gyms are ften cld, s a sweatshirt r sweater is nice t wear until yu are warmed up. Remember that yu will be wearing a harness and that it is best t keep yur waist area neat and visible. Super baggy clthes r large shirts that cver up the harness are nt recmmended. Clthing fr utdr sprt climbing is similar, but add a jacket and hat fr weather prtectin. Sprt climbing utside is characterized by perids f intense climbing that generates plenty f warmth, fllwed by lng perids f standing arund belaying r resting. Be prepared t put n a jacket r even warm-up pants t stay warm in between climbs. Chse synthetics fr clthing n lnger traditinal climbs because they d nt absrb water, are warm when wet, and dry quickly. Always have a rain parka and pssibly rain pants, a hat, and an extra warm vest r sweater accessible in a pack if the frecast is questinable.

12 Belay Schl Infrmatin Indr Belaying Yu can have the gear, knw yur knts and signals, knw the rating f the rute, and have the mves memrized, but unless yu can belay safely, yu are nt ready t climb. N ther skill is as imprtant t safe climbing than belaying, and there is n better cmpliment than t be described as a great belayer. Learn the techniques and respnsibilities f belaying, and practice until it is secnd nature-remember, yur partner literally trusts yu with his r her life. The term belay is derived frm a French verb that means t hld fast r t prtect. Fr the climber, t belay means t prtect a climber by cntrlling his r her rpe s that in the case f a fall, the rpe will be held fast. The key t a gd belay is frictin. Belay devices prvide manageable frictin by putting a bend in the rpe that allws the belayer t feed rpe ut and take rpe in easily; yet lck ff t catch a fall. Prper rpe handling, cmmunicatin, and technique are mandatry elements f safe belaying. The fllwing elements f the belay system are universal t all types f climbing. Start by learning these techniques either in a gym r ther cntrlled envirnment with an instructr. Setting up a belay After the climber is tied in, the belayer must set up a belay. Grasp the rpe a cmfrtable distance frm the climber and frm a bight in the rpe. Push the bight thrugh the apprpriate hle r slt in the HB Sheriff belay device. Clip the bight int the lcking carabiners that is clipped int the harness s belay lp (a vertically riented, full-strength sewn lp n the frnt f many harnesses cnnecting the waist belt t the leg lps). The retaining cable f the belay device is als clipped int the lcking carabiners. (Practice inserting and remving the rpe frm the belay device withut ever remving the retaining cable frm the lcking carabiners; it is a habit that will help prevent drpping the device.) Lck the lcking carabiners. Demnstrate prper set up: See diagram: Setting up an ATC fr Belaying Rpe Handling The first thing, t d after the belay device is laded is t identity the brake hand. The standing end f the rpe-the part that emerges frm the belay device and des nt lead t the climber-is the brake side f the rpe. The hand that

13 hlds that side f the rpe is the brake hand. The hand n the live end f the rpe-the end ging t the climber-is called the guide hand. The number-ne rule f belaying is t never let g with the brake hand. T stp a fall, r t hld a climber n the rpe, pull back with the brake hand. This actin bends the rpe arund the belay device, clamping the device against the lcking carabiners. The frictin that is created stps the fall. Braking is achieved by this technique. It is nt a matter f a strng grip; the equipment des the jb. When the climber mves away frm the belayer, slack must be fed ut. This is dne with each hand n its respective side f the rpe, simultaneusly feeding and pushing the rpe ut t the climber. The brake hand naturally stays n the rpe during this mtin. Taking the rpe in as a climber mves tward the belayer is a bit mre difficult. Here are the best techniques: As the climber mves up and slack develps, pull the rpe thrugh the belay device with the brake hand. The guide hand can assist by pushing the rpe int the device. When the brake hand is extended ut a cmfrtable distance, slide the guide hand dwn the standing side f the rpe until it is pssible t pinch the brake side f the rpe with the guide hand belw the brake hand. Bth guide hand and brake hand are nw mmentarily n the wrking end f rpe. This allws the brake hand t slide up the brake side f the rpe tward the belay device withut ever letting g f the braking side f the rpe, and prevents any rpe frm slipping back thrugh the belay device. The prcess is cntinually repeated as the climber prgresses, and the belayer is always ready t lck the rpe ff in the brake psitin shuld a fall ccur. PULL, BRAKE, SWITCH, SLIDE methd that wrks well is fr the belayer t pull the rpe thrugh the device with the brake hand, lck the device ff, reach ver and hld the lck-ff psitin with the guide hand, and then slide the brake hand back dwn. A mre reliable, easier-t-master belay: the hands-dwn methd. One dem and I was cnvinced this is a better belay t teach, especially fr tprping. The sequence is simple. Hlding yur brake hand palm-dwn with yur thumb tward the belay device and yur feeding hand in its traditinal palm-up/pinky-tward manner, pull in rpe in the usual, hands-in-unisn fashin. At the end f each strke, immediately pull yur brake hand back dwn t the brake psitin (Figure 1). Nw mve yur feeding hand frm the climber s side f the rpe t the brake side, grasping the rpe just beynd yur brake hand, where it serves temprarily as a back-up brake (Figure 2). Next, slide yur brake hand back up the rpe (Figure 3). Return yur feeding hand t the starting psitin, and repeat the sequence. Many students find it helpful t repeat the mantra: Pull brake switch slide. There are several advantages t this technique: It emplys an instinctive palm-dwn braking psitin; it makes it difficult fr a belayer t pinch bth rpes with the brake hand, a cmmn mistake in the pinch methd; it eliminates the prblem f a belayer extending his brake hand beynd his feeding hand, frcing him t remve the brake hand n the recvery (anther very cmmn mistake); and it keeps the brake hand in a gd psitin fr cnfident lwering. When taking in rpe, students will smetimes make the mistake f pulling rpe laterally frm the belay device with their brake hands. This, f curse, activates the device and causes a great deal f frictin. T remedy this, instruct students t mve their brake hand tward the tprpe anchr, rather than t the side, when recvering rpe, and remember that this system is indicated fr tprping nly. The hands-dwn methd is all I use and teach anymre, and I m tld it s gaining ppularity with gyms and climbing schls. First-time climbers and grizzled muntain guides alike can benefit frm this simpler, mre flprf belay. See Pictures Belw:

14 Figure 1. Brake in the nrmal manner Figure 2.then mve yur feeding hand dwn t brake Figure 3. and slide yur brake hand back up. (Slip, Slap, Slide Methd)This is nt an easy technique t learn. One trick is t start learning in first gear. Keep the guide hand extended straight ut, with bth sides f the rpe running thrugh the pen palm. Pull rpe thrugh the device and tward the guide hand with the brake hand. Allw bth rpes t easily slide thrugh the guide hand until the mment when the tw hands meet. Then quickly pinch the brake side f the rpe with the guide hand and slide the brake hand hack dwn the rpe t prepare t pull in anther length. D nt mve the extended guide hand; just relax and let the rpe run thrugh it until it has t pinch the brake strand. As sn as this is mastered, mve t secnd gear. Nw the guide hand starts mving back and frth in cnjunctin with the brake hand, pulling the rpe in, then extending ut t pinch the brake rpe while the brake hand slides dwn. Practice! Taking Rpe In (as the climber ascends) 1. With bth hands firmly n the rpe, the guide hand pulls the rpe twards the ATC as the brake hand pulls rpe ut and away frm the ATC (Figure 1). 2. When the guide hand reaches the ATC, hld the rpe fast with the brake hand, while sliding the guide hand up the live end f the rpe until it is abve the brake hand (Figure 2). 3. The guide hand nw grasps bth ends f the rpe and pinches bth ff with the thumb while the brake hand slides back dwn the rpe t the ATC. The hands are nw back in psitin t repeat step 1 (Figure 3). The brake hand never leaves the rpe!

15 Lwering The belayer ften has the jb f lwering the climber back dwn t the grund after the climber has reached the tp f the climb. Lwering begins with prper cmmunicatin. The belayer first pulls in as much slack as pssible thrugh the belay device until the climber is felt n the rpe. Then the belayer lcks ff the rpe in the brake psitin. The climber weights the rpe and the belayer lwers the climber dwn. Allw the belay device t d the lwering by adjusting the angle f the brake side f the rpe as it feeds int the device. The climber will lwer faster as the rpe is raised up, slwer as it is angled mre sharply dwn tward the brake psitin. Using bth hands n the brake end f the rpe makes fr smth lwering. Let the rpe run thrugh yur hand at a mderately slw pace. Try nt t be jerky. Letting Rpe Out (when the climber needs slack) 1. With bth hands firmly n the rpe, the guide hand shuffles the rpe away frm the ATC (Figure 4 5). Lcking Off the Rpe Lcking ff is t keep mre rpe frm paying ut if the climber is falling, r if yu need t hld tensin n the rpe (fr example while a climber rests). Using the brake hand, bend the rpe acrss the ATC. This cllapses the ATC nt the lcking carabiner and lcks the rpe ff (Figure 6). Outdr Belaying Belaying is belaying, right? Well, nt really. Belaying indrs is always the same: Yu stand n the flr and belay either a lead r a tprpe. Belaying utdrs is nt s simple. Yu may be psitined belw the climber, maybe abve; the grund may be flat, slping, r rcky, r yu may be hanging ff the belay; yu may r may nt need t be anchred; reaching the belay anchr may be as straightfrward as walking up t the base f the rute (as in a gym) r require a rappel r a belay frm abve. Belaying utdrs invlves making decisins abut the anchr, the psitin f the belayer, and the belay technique. Being able t safely set up belays in a wide range f utdr situatins requires an understanding f the system ptins, the technical prficiency t set up crrectly the chsen system, and the maturity t knw yur limits. Learn the systems, pick the best ptin fr the situatin, but d nt experiment-if yu mve ut f yur cmfrt zne, yu may put yurself and thers at risk.

16 There is cmmn grund between belaying indrs and utdrs. The actins f belaying (paying rpe ut, taking rpe in, catching falls, lwering climbers) and the tls (plates, tubes, aut-lcking devices, and the Munter hitch) are all the same. The difference is in the applicatin f the actins and the tls. The CATCH principles: It is imperative when climbing utdrs that the belayer is prepared t catch a fall. Unlike in the perfect envirnment f the gym, climbing utdrs has t many variables t allw fr casual belaying. T help ensure safety, adhere t the fllwing CATCH principles: C Be sure the system is clsed by having the belayer clipped int the rpe. A Align the belayer between the anticipated directin f frce. T Have the belayer psitined tight t the belay anchr. C Be sure the cmmunicatin is clear between the climber and the belayer. H Be sure the belayer s brake hand is n the rpe and he r she can belay safely. Clsed. Clsing the system is fundamental in climbing-we d it when we back-buckle ur harness and tie a keeper knt in ur figure eight knt-and is very imprtant in belaying. Climbers are injured each year when their belayer drps them because the end f the rpe passes cmpletely thrugh the belay device. The simplest way t clse the system is just t have the belayer tie the end f his r her rpe t the harness-the belayer has t tie in t climb the rute anyway. If the belayer is nt planning t climb the rute, then he r she can clse the system by tying a figure eight n a bight belw the belay device. Aligned. Whenever pssible the belayer shuld be clipped int an anchr n the grund, either with the climbing rpe r with slings girth-hitched t the harness. After clipping in, the belayer shuld determine the mst likely directin he r she will be pulled if the leader falls, and align with it. A falling leader will create a straight line between the first piece f prtectin and the anchr, and the belayer, if nt aligned with that, can be pulled ut f psitin. Tight. Just being in line between the anchr and the anticipated directin f frce is nt enugh. The belayer must als be psitined tight t the belay anchr; if nt, he r she risks being pulled until psitined tight and culd lse cntrl. Cmmunicatin. Befre leaving the grund, the climber must cmmunicate clearly with the belayer abut what is ging t happen. Will the leader be lwered after clipping the tp anchrs? Will the leader rappel? In the first situatin, the belayer must keep the leader n belay; in the secnd, the belayer will take the leader ff belay while he r she rigs the rappel. If the leader expects t be lwered and the belayer expects him r her t rappel, there culd he fatal cnsequences. Get ur cmmunicatin clear. Hand. It seems like such a simple thing: Feed rpe in and take rpe ut withut letting g f the brake hand. It is amazing hw frequently climbers-especially nvices-fail t d this crrectly. Befre the climber leaves the grund, be abslutely sure that the belayer can and will keep the belay in effect until the climb is ver. An extra 10 minutes n the grund practicing culd save the climber s life.

17 Belay (French wrd means t prtect ) Hw t Belay BELAY SCHOOL LESSONS Belaying itself is relatively simple prvided ne is always paying attentin t yur climbing partner. The end f the rpe which passes thrugh the tp-rpe anchr and ges back dwn t the climber is called the "wrking" end f the rpe. The "wrking" end is handled by the "guide" hand. The ther end f the rpe is the "brake" end which is handled by the "brake" hand. Yu must always have at least ne hand n the brake end f the rpe at all times. If yu dn't, and the climber begins t fall, yu will nt be able t regain cntrl f the rpe, and the climber may be injured. As the climber prceeds up the wall, it is the belayer's jb t take up the rpe and make sure there is n slack in the system. This limit the distance the climber can fall. Make sure bth hands never leave the rpe! Belay Techniques Shw Tug-a-War Analgy. See diagram belw One v. One ~ Explain: Whever is bigger and strnger is ging t win! One v. One with a tree r Vlleyball ple. Unless yu have a mechanical advantage, such as a tree r ple which creates frictin (i.e. belay device). One v. Five students with rpe wrapped 2 r 3 times arund tree r ple. Debrief: Hw frictin can be used t ne s advantage. One v. One A B N Mechanical advantage (n frictin) One v. One w/ tree r ple A @ B Frictin allws the smaller persn t have a stalemate One v. 5 w/ wrap arund tree r ple Teacher @@ XXXXX Teacher versus five f yur strngest students! Wrap rpe three times arund tree and teacher hld rpe with yur tw fingers. Yu will win! These examples help the students understand frictin. Great Way t Check fr Understanding Hand n head t check fr understanding Gld Line Justing Named after riginal climbing rpe made ut f hemp Start with bth justers using dminate hand ONLY n rpe, feet must be tgether, and a slight smile in the rpe (best ut f 3) Then Nn-dminate hand

18 Technique t be successful: Push/Pull/Push~ watch feet, get them t mve feet It s a game f balance, and getting a feel f the rpe. Diagram f Gldline Justing: Beginning Climbers (Everyne) demnstrate Bdy Belay - Wrk with Partner Right hand Brake Never cmes ff rpe! And Brake dwn t inside thigh. Left hand Guide hand Bdy belay a stack f rpe with dminate handed then partner bdy belays Bdy belay a stack f rpe with nn-dminate hand then partner bdy belays Use bdy belay t get cmfrtable with rpe in hands. Partner can put their hand n belayers brake hand t remind them nt t remve it. Multiple Bdy belayers n ne rpe, with limited rpes ~ dem technique Slip, Slap, Slide Dminate hand Then Nn-dminate Eyes clsed Punch, Brake, (Switch), Slide Rpe ver the tp with thumb (punch) Grab rpe under brake hand with guide hand Slide brake hand up & pull and punch Bdy Belay Variatins Dminate palm up (slip, slap, slide) Nn-dminate hand Over thumb dminate Nn-dminate Eyes clsed dminate Nn-dminate Slw mtin Yung kids 1 st step Belay Relay Race Cmpetitin ~ Belayer- Bdy Belays fast as they can, rpe shuld nt tuch flr Parameters t add: Eyes clsed, stp, fall, r g cmmands Repetitin is the Key Instructrs Key Pint: Watch Belayer gd ready psitin and brake hand des nt cme ff Fishing in the Dark This is a gd activity t get students t fcus n their tactile sense (develps sense f feel f rpe) Signals: Instructr demnstrate

19 Signal frward Signal stp Signal back Start with eyes pen then clse t feel Belayer s Reactin t cmmands Stp Brake (resting) Back Brake (like a fall) Frward Belay Rpe in Check fr understanding shw f hands abve head 1-10 = 10 being very cmfrtable Shw and Tell f Climbing Equipment Harness waist 2 finger between waist band abve hip bne, Finger in belay lp shuld be in belly buttn Legs SAME shuld be able t squat Duble back Buckles Carabiners laded hle up and shw finger pull HB Sheriff ~ Keeper wire (cable r hard wire) Tw hles will use tp hle HB Sheriff r ACT The belay device has tw penings and the bight can be put thrugh either hle r bth fr repelling. On the backside f the sheriff there is a wire lp that gets clipped by tw carabiners t the belayers harness. T set up the sheriff the belayer must first figure what hand they feel mst cmfrtable as the brake hand. Then they must make a bight in the rpe and slip it thrugh ne f the penings in the sheriff. Using bth carabiners in ppsing each ther, belayer will then clip, flip, and screw dwn the carabiners thrugh the rpe and the wire lp. The sheriff wrks by applying frictin n the rpe by placing a bend in the rpe against the sheriff. This frictin helps stp the rpe frm slipping when the participant falls and helps cntrl the decent f the climber t t he grund. Helmets Rpe Care Hrizntal Belay with HB Sheriff Belay Device Variatins a. Dminate hand Pull brake switch slide. b. Nn-dminate hand pcket c. Punch methd Dminate hand d. brake straight dwn palm up brake t hip e. Nn-dminate f. Eyes clsed dminate g. Nn-dminate h. Slw mtin Yung kids 1 st step

20 Y Y Belay / Sling sht / Dynamic Diagram: Fur persn Participatin Belay Grups f 4 a. Belayer b. Back up Bdy Belay 45degree behind belayer with a Slight smile c. Anchr d. Climber e. Mdel statin Safety check Check self Belay/Climber check ther Back up and anchr Check Belay/Climber Belay team practice it 2 times befre vertical belay If Outside yu can hk tp anchr t a fence Pssible incline belay wrks well Belay Schl shuld take 5 days test in n 5 th day Mtr skills need t be dwn then teach safety! Rtate all fur thrugh it psitin Feel gd abut where at Check fr understanding Teaching Safety after mtr skills are dwn Step 1: 1. Carabineers ppsite and ppsing 2. Climbers Check harnesses, squeeze carabiner, knts, helmet Step 2: 1. Belay inspects Climber 3 persn check head t tes check 2. Climber inspects Belay Step 3: 1. Back up inspects by anchr and back up belayer 2. Take jbs serius did yu d yur jb? get in a habit f checking ne anther.

21 If make mistake Take belay certificatin away and they must get Recertified! This will g a lng ways if yu nail a student early in the lessn. BARK methd B Buckler A Anchr R Rpes K Knts B Beaners, buckles, bucket A R K HEAD t TOE Check Climbing Calls Prper and clear cmmunicatin is anther key t safe climbing. Cmmunicatin between belayer and climber can be difficult. Whether yu are in a crwded gym r n a windy crag, smetimes it is impssible t hear exactly what the climber 50 feet abve yu said. The fllwing cmmands are standard fr all types f climbing and shuld be used at all times. These standard cmmands prvide nt nly the wrds, but the syntax, that make cmmunicatin pssible in difficult situatins: The fllwing verbal cmmands must be used verbatim befre the start f a climb: Climber: On Belay Belayer: Belay is On Climber: Climbing Belayer: Climb On At the end f the climb, when the climber has reached the desired height, the fllwing cmmunicatin shuld take place. This signals that the climber is dne climbing n lnger. Climber: Taxi Belayer: Taxi On At the end f the climb, when the climber has returned t the grund, the fllwing cmmunicatin shuld take place. This signals that the climber n lnger needs a belay. Climber: Off Belay Belayer: Belay Off

22 Other cmmands can be used by the climber t let the belayer knw f his/her intentins. The fllwing is a list f climber cmmands and apprpriate respnses by the belayer: Climber: Up Rpe r Tensin Belayer Actin: Thank Yu. Take available slack ut f rpe. Climber: Slack Belayer Actin: Thank Yu. Give climber slack t lessen the tensin. Climber: Falling Belayer Actin: G immediately t braking psitin. Climber: Dwn Climb Belayer Actin: Thank Yu. Watch climber descend and give apprpriate slack as climber needs it. Pst Cmmands by wall Helpful Tips: Belayer Unhks Climber Because climber fatigued, hands cramped r handing crew 6 persn team 2 thers grund crew Spt put hands n Wrds f encuragement Anchrs 2 hand grab and harness Frnt end lading step t prevent prblems 1. Inspect rpe secnd checker 2. Tw Haul Rpe 3. Bwline n a Bight 4. Check all equipment First time Belayer have them be a secnd Belayer t get warm-up First time up fr Belay Cert. Have them climb 12 ft. up wall ff the grund. Belay team in Vertical Plane One time climb 8 ft. min/12 ft. ultimate Instructr In between Belayer/Backup when feel uncmfrtable

23 T ceiling Repetitin until earn yur cnfidence! Vertical Plane Things t watch fr 1. lng hair 2. sweatshirts 3. necklace 4. t-shirt They may get caught in HB Sheriff when yu mve t belaying in the vertical plane. Hw d yu get bject ut t get ut f Belay Device 2 peple pull dwn n rpe helps t free it Trauma Scissrs cut bject getting in the way STRETCH ROUTINE is a must when yu re ready t begin t climb and belay. 1. Head t te stretch prgram 2. Emphasis shulders, arms, and hands Handshakes t get partners Iwa/Wis. Handshake Interlck thumbs dwn with the cw Sneaky Handshake Index finger tickle palm Shake Hand Yu re a Rck Star Ankle shake Nerdy High Five reach nes shulder. High Five, Frearm, Pwer Salmn Helicpter Butterfly

24 Rck Climbing Terminlgy adjustable harness - A harness n which the size f the waist belt and leg lps can be adjusted with buckles aid climbing - Pulling n prtectin t make upward prgress n a climb backup belayer - A secnd persn wh feeds the rpe t the primary belayer; he r she will lck ff the belay if the primary belayer lses cntrl belay - Means "t hld r prtect"; refers t a system f devices and techniques that cmbine t prtect a climbed frm being injured in a fall by lcking the rpe belay anchr - Any single-pint r multipint anchr frm which a belay is made belay device - Any f several devices that are used t create a bend in the rpe that prvides manageable frictin fr belaying r rappelling belay lp - A sewn lp n the frnt f sme harnesses: used fr belaying and rappelling bight - Any bend in the rpe that des nt crss itself; used in many knts and t thread belay rappel devices bmbprf - A cmpletely reliable anchr; als called a bmber buldering - Lw-t-the-grund climbing wherein the climber can jump back dwn t the grund, and a rpe and belay are nt necessary braced stance - A belay psitin wherein the belayer's bdy is psitined s that it is able t hld a tall withut additinal anchr brake hand - The hand that hlds the rpe n the side f the belay device ppsite the climber and that will activate the lcking mechanism; the brake hand never leaves the rpe brake strand - The strand f rpe n the brakeband side f the belay butterflying the rpe - A methd fr temprarily string the rpe in which lps are drpped alternately ver the belayer's tether carabiner - An steel snap-link used t cnnect parts f a climbing system CATCH - A set f belaying principles: Clsed system, Aligned and Tight t the anchr, Cmmunicatin clear, and brake Hand n the rpe class - A rating system frm 1 t 6 that describes general difficulty, ranging frm biking t aid climbing cleaning - T remve prtectin frm a climb crd - Nyln fibers wven like a rpe using Kernmantle cnstructin, typically 5.5 mm t 8 mm in diameter; used tied in shrt lps as clamping hitches

25 crdelette - A 6- t 9-ft lp f crd usually between 5.5 mm and 8 mm in diameter tied with a duble r triple fisherman knt; has many uses, including building belay anchrs and as a cmpnent f selfrescue systems cre - The climbing rpe's central cre f wven nyln fibers; accunts fr abut 85 percent f the rpe crimp - A small handhld in which the fingers are hyperextended crunch - The psitin in which the feet are held high and the hands lw crux - The hardest mve r series f mves n a pitch; the hardest pitch n a multipitch climb duble fisherman - A standard knt fr jining tw rpes tgether; knts are tied n each strand that jam tgether under a lad duble-pass buckle - The standard harness buckle; requires the waist-belt webbing t be threaded thrugh twice, crssing ver itself and lcking n the secnd pass dressing - The act f making a knt neat and tight dynamic mve - A mve wherein the climber mves aggressively tward a hld and will tall ff if he r she des nt grab it securely; see als static mve dynamic rpe - A climbing rpe that is designed t stretch cnsiderably and absrb the frce f a falling climber; the nly kind f rpe suitable fr leading edging - Using the inside r utside edge f the she n a prtruding hld ERNEST - A set f principles fr cnstructed belay anchrs: Equalized, Redundant, N Extensin, Strng and Stable, Timely extensin - A ptential slipping f cmpnents in an anchr system t adjust fr the failure f any pint; causes an undesirable shck lad face climbing - Climbing technique that uses small ledges fr hand- and fthlds fall factr - A measure f the severity f a fall; derived by dividing the length f the fall int the length f rpe in the system: the maximum fall factr is 2 fall line - A line parallel t that f gravity figure eight knt - A knt shaped like an 8; has many uses, including cnnecting the rpe t the harness, tying int an anchr, tying tw rpes tgether, tied n a bight t frm a lp, et cetera flagging - Using the weight f ne ft and leg, in the air, t help maintain balance while making a mve with the ther ft and leg free carabiner - A carabiner carried n the rack by itself with nthing clipped t it free climbing - Climbing wherein the hands and feet arc used alne t make prgress, and climbing equipment is used nly t prvide prtectin in the case f a fall; see als sling

26 frictin wrap - A technique fr creating a belay anchr wherein the rpe is wrapped, ften several times, arund a tree and uses the frictin alne fr security frnt-pinting - Using the te f the she placed straight nt a fthld gastn - A side-pull hld in frnt f the bdy, held with the thumb dwn grade - A rating system f I thrugh VII that describes the apprximate time (cmmitment) it will take t climb a rute, frm a cuple f hurs t several days Gri Gri - An aut-lcking belay device made by Petzl guide hand - The hand ppsite the brake hand; helps psitin and manage the rpe hangdg - T wrk the mves n a rute by resting n the rpe between attempts highstep - A mve wherein the next fthld is abve the waist keeper knt - Any auxiliary knt used t ensure the security f anther knt; fr example, a half duble fisherman knt tied after a figure eight tie-in is a keeper knt Kernmantle - Means "cre and sheath" and is the methd by which climbing rpes are cnstructed Kevlar - A synthetic material that is used t make crd and sme climbing accessries lap cil - A cil that cnsists f verlapping lps, typically tied ff s it can be carried like a backpack; is less likely t tangle when being unciled fr use lead climbing - A system f climbing frm the grund up wherein a climber ascends while belayed frm belw by a partner, trailing a rpe and clipping it thrugh intermediate prtectin pints; when the leader reaches the end f a pitch, he r she will anchr the rpe and belay up the secnd climber n a tp-rpe; the prcess is then repeated until the tp f a climb is reached leader - The persn leading a pitch; als called the lead climber lead fall - A fall taken while leading; in the case f a lead fall, the belayer will hld the fall, which will he caught by the last piece f prtectin Leave N Trace - A nnprfit rganizatin that prmtes a lw-impact envirnmental ethic f the same name leg lps - The part f the harness that ges arund the legs lieback - A hld that is riented vertically and pulled n sideways; als called a side pull live end - The end f the rpe tied t the climber lcking carabiner - A carabiner with any f varius lcking mechanisms that keep the gate frm pening unexpectedly lck ff - A bdy psitin in which the climber hlds him r herself in place with ne arm fully cntracted

27 lp - A bend in rpe r webbing that crsses ver itself lwering - A methd f descent wherein the climber weights the rpe and is let dwn by the belayer; the cmmn methd f descent frm a slingsht belay mantle - A series f mves that allw the climber t stand up n a fthld; similar t the mvement used t climb ut f a swimming pl master pint - The central attachment pint in a belay anchr nut - Generic term fr any piece f passive prtectin n a bight - A knt tied in the middle f a rpe n-sight T lead a rute n the first try withut falling pen grip - A handhld in which the fingers are nt hyperextended ppsitin - Using ppsing frces fr strength; usually refers t tw pieces f prtectin that are placed t hld frce in ppsite directins and tied tgether t frm ne multidirectinal anchr verhand backup - An verhand knt tied n a bight t frm a lp that is clipped in t the system as a backup verhanging - Any sectin f rck that is steeper than vertical palming - Using the palm f the hand as a frictin hld pinch grip - A handhld in which the fingers and thumb wrk in ppsitin t pinch a hld prusik - A clamping hitch used in belay and self-rescue systems rand - The utside prtin f the she that runs arund the she just abve the sle; usually made f rubber in a climbing she rappel - Any f varius methds f descending a rpe using cntrlled frictin redirect - Changing the directin f a vectr by reruting it; can increase cntrl; fr example, running the rpe frm the belayer's device thrugh an anchr befre ging t the climber redpint - T climb a rute withut falling after repeated tries redundancy - A principle f climbing that builds extra equipment int a system as a backup remte master pint - A system fr belaying wherein the device used t belay is attached directly t the anchr and is perated by the belayer frm a distance rest psitin - T hang straight-armed ff a high bld t cnserve energy reversed and ppsed - A methd fr using tw carabiners tgether s they are riented with their gates pening in ppsite directins and n ppsite sides; used any time maximum security is required

28 rpe bag - A nyln sack used t carry the rpe; pens t frm a mat n which the rpe can be stacked n the grund rpe drag - Frictin caused by the rpe running thrugh parts f the system rund cil - A way f ciling the climbing rpe in a traditinal circular cil; usually carried ver the head and ne shulder sandbag - T mislead smene regarding the difficulty r danger f a rute; ptentially dangerus self-rescue - Any rescue system utilizing nly the climbing equipment that the climbers n the scene pssess sewing machine legs Invluntary shaking f the legs due t nervusness sheath - The wven nyln uter layer f a rpe that prtects the cre frm damage; accunts fr abut 15 percent f the strength f the rpe slingsht - The standard system fr tp-rping wherein the rpe is dubled thrugh an anchr at the tp f the rute and the climber is belayed frm n the grund slip-lasted - A she that is nt cnstructed arund a stiff midsle; see als hard-lasted slippers - Thin, lightweight climbing shes, usually withut laces, that ffer great sensitivity but almst n supprt Spectra - A synthetic material used t make crd r webbing and used in many climbing applicatins spider - A self-rescue system that hangs tw r mre climbers ff the same crdelette r sling simultaneusly sprt climbing - Climbing, indrs r ut, in which all the prtectin and anchrs are permanently in place sptting - Giving prtectin t a climber climbing clse t the grund by standing under him r her and using utstretched arms t help cushin a fall; ften used when buldering squeeze chimney - A chimney small enugh t just barely admit the climber's bdy stacking the rpe - Unciling the rpe int a lse pile with a tp and bttm expsed; the climber tics in t the tp end; minimizes tangles standing end - The ppsite end f the rpe frm the ne the climber is tied t; see als live end static elngatin - The amunt a rpe will stretch when hlding a bdy-weight lad static mve - A mve wherein the climber mves slwly and in cntrl and will nt fall ff if the next hld is nt grabbed securely; see als dynamic mve static rpe - A climbing rpe that is designed t stretch little and is used in situatins wherein nly bdyweight lads are expected, such as rappelling, ascending fixed rpes, et cetera

29 stemming - A climbing technique wherein ppsing fthlds are pushed ff frm each ther fr security; ften used in inside crners stpper knt - A knt tied in the end f a rpe r sling t keep smething else frm sliding ff it straight-gate carabiner - A carabiner with a straight gate tail - The amunt f rpe sticking ut after a knt is tied test-fall - The labratry fall used by the UIAA t test rpes; a 16.5-ft fall n 8.25 feet f rpe tether - The shrt sectin f rpe frmed when the climber ties a figure eight n a bight and clips in t the anchr; length varies depending n the situatin; als called a leash third class - Slang fr sling; t "third class" a rute is t demte its grade t that f a thirdclass rute, which des nt require a rpe tp-lwer - l lwer a climber frm abve tp-rpe anchr - The belay anchr fr a tp-rpe tp-rpe fall - A fall while climbing n a tp rpe; usually very shrt unless there is slack in the system tp-rping - Any f several systems wherein the climber is prtected frm falling by an verhead belay trquing - Twisting hands, fingers, r feet t increase the security f a jam traditinal climbing - A climbing system wherein the prtectin pints and belay anchrs that are placed in the rck while climbing the rute are remved by the secnd tramming - A system that uses a quickdraw n the climber's harness clipped t the rpe running between the tp anchr and the base f the rute; keeps the climber within reach f the rck while being lwered n verhanging r traversing rutes transitin - The steps required t change frm ne fundamental system t anther; fr example, frm climbing t rappelling traverse - Any part f a climb that mves sideways rather than up tri-axial lading - A dangerus situatin that arises when a carabiner is stressed by three vectrs, ne f which is nt aligned with the carabiner's lng axis; weakens the carabiner and can cause failure if' shckladed UIAA - The Unin Internatinale des Assciatins Alpines; the internatinal agency that sets standards fr and tests climbing safety equipment undercling - A hld that is riented s that it is best when pulled up n unidirectinal - An anchr that is secure in nly ne directin "up rpe" - A cmmand made by the climber asking fr slack t be remved frm the system

30 vectr - Any quantity with bth magnitude and directin (fr example, a climber hanging n a rpe frms a vectr between him r herself and the anchr) waist belay - A belay methd that uses the belayer's bdy t create the frictin necessary t hld the climber; its use is limited t lw-lad situatins Ysemite Decimal System - American rckclimbing rating system (abbreviated YDS); rates the difficulty f individual Class 5 mves n a scale frm 5.0 t 5.14; rutes abve 5.10 are further brken dwn int subratings a thrugh d (fr example, 5.12a) Rpe Management - Ciling ver the neck Tired f hlding up the cils f rpe while butterflying it? If yu knw hw t butterfly a rpe, then this is an easy way t take the weight ff yur hands. See the sequence f images belw fr hw t d it. There is ne disadvantage when yu are ciling a cld wet rpe - and yu have t hang it ver yur neck. Perhaps it's nt wrth the saving f effrt then!

31 Butterfly cil