The Bard. September A.S. 51 (2016)

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1 The Bard September A.S. 51 (2016)

2 In This Month's Issue... Mistress Brid uí Chon na Mara... 3 An Easy Hat from the 13 th Century... 4 One Lady s Memories... 7 Three Month Kingdom Event Calendar... 9 Regular Shire Meetings... 9 Officers... 9 Cover Art Chronicler Office Disclaimer This edition of The Bard is dedicated, in loving memory, to Mistress Brid uí Chon na Mara.

3 Mistress Brid uí Chon na Mara Azure, on a bend bretessed between two open penannular brooches bendwise sinister Or, a bendlet vert. ~Outlands College of Arms Pelican -- Outlands Crescent -- Caid Stag -- the Outlands Dolphin -- Caid Trefoil -- the Outlands (AoA) (Service) Award of Arms Forêt d Or of Gyldenholt -- Caid Signum Reginae of Caid -- Caid (Ceinwen I) Augmentation of Arms One of the first times I spent time with Mistress Brid was shortly after I joined the Shire about 5 years ago. Lord Leif and I had gone over to her home so she could help me sew my first tunic. After a couple of hours of working, we called it a day. Rather than going home, Leif and I stayed to talk with Mistress Brid. I don't remember everything we talked about, but we spent several hours getting to know each other over a bag of trail mix. We laughed and talked and snacked until past midnight. That night was the starting point of a friendship that I valued very highly. Brid was always available to talk with me and help me with problems I had. I will miss our talks every day, but I'm glad I got to know her and spend time with her. ~Derbáil ingen Rónáin

An Easy Hat from the 13 th Century 1 by Cynthia du Pre Argent First picture is from a book commissioned by Alphonse the Wise in around 1260; the second is from the Manesse

Introduction These hats are lightweight, easy to make, and look good on anyone with hair shoulderlength or longer.

As with all hats from the middle ages, we have no extant examples, so conclusions of method and materials are all taken from contemporary illustrations.

There are a few generalizations that can be made about these hats: They were always white or off-white They were held on by a chin strap that pinned to itself over the top of

4 An Easy Hat from the 13 th Century 1 by Cynthia du Pre Argent First picture is from a book commissioned by Alphonse the Wise in around 1260; the second is from the Manesse Codex, in the very early 1300s. The third picture is of a hat that I made, which is falling off the model head because it is too large for the head, but the right size for me! Introduction These hats are lightweight, easy to make, and look good on anyone with hair shoulderlength or longer. This page discusses one way to make them, and another method which might solve some remaining questions. As with all hats from the middle ages, we have no extant examples, so conclusions of method and materials are all taken from contemporary illustrations. Your conclusions may be different than mine, and that's OK. There are a few generalizations that can be made about these hats: They were always white or off-white They were held on by a chin strap that pinned to itself over the top of the head Sometimes they were worn with tight snoods to keep the hair up, (snoods should not hang down much at all -- see the picture) sometimes with the hair down. Sometimes they were pleated, and sometimes appear to be entirely smooth, sometimes they have a scalloping effect at the top. 1 Mistress Brid often spoke to me wishing more of our Shire wore head coverings as is appropriate in period so I thought I would include a simple example that looks rather pretty!

5 They angled out from the head only slightly -- the b&w illustration is the only one I've ever seen with the pie-plate type angle to it. I believe that most of them were open on the top. There is an effigy at the Cloisters in New York that clearly shows the top of the woman's head; you can see the band, and her hair, inside the 'bowl' of the hat. Most folks call this arrangement a barbette (strap) and fillet (hat). I'll use those terms. How to make First, cut out a 1/4 ring of buckram. This will get you a nice, smooth outward flare that is not too extreme. To make the 1/4 ring: 1. Measure your head with a tape measure; add one inch. 2. Set the tape measure on its edge on the buckram, so that it arcs from the selvedge of the buckram to the cut side, straddleing a corner. 3. Using a pencil, trace this line; remove the tape measure. 4. Measure from the corner of the buckram to a few points on your line, so that you have an average measurement. 5. Use this radial measurment to make certain that you have an even circle-segment drawn on the buckram. 6. Decide how tall you want your fillet; a good height is 2.5" 7. Add this number to your radial measurement, and again trace the curve onto your buckram 8. Now cut the buckram! 9. Next, join the buckram together at the short edge to make your fillet. To cover with pleated fabric, cut out a strip of fabric just over two times longer than your head measurement, and twice as wide as your fillet is tall, plus seam allowance. Iron this into pleats before applying to the fillet. To apply the pleated fabric to the fillet, pin the pleats onto the middle of the fillet's band, all the way around. Then you can carefully fold the pleated fabric over the top and bottom. The pleats may well expand or contract a bit due to the angle of the fillet. This is ok; you'll be ironing them again when you're done. Pin securely, and then baste the covering together on the inside of the fillet. Now all you need is a band for holding it on. Measure around your head as if you were wearing a kerchief, making sure to go over the top of your head, rather than around your face. Cut your fabric

Then set the fillet on your head, making certain that it is horizontal, not falling off the back of your head. Pin the fillet to the band with two straight pins. Voila! You're done!

6 this long, plus 3" and as wide as you like -- I suggest 3" wide, which you then sew into a tube, and turn inside out and press. To wear, wrap the barbette from your chin to the top of your head, and pin with a straight pin. This should be fairly snug; it will loosen a bit once pinned. Then set the fillet on your head, making certain that it is horizontal, not falling off the back of your head. Pin the fillet to the band with two straight pins. Voila! You're done! Some further ideas If you like the Manesse look, the night before the event, braid your hair in at least two ponytails, as high on your head as you can get them. Leave the braids in and drying until you get to the event. If you don't want the pleats, simply made a cover for the buckram when it's still flat, out of two quarter-rings of covering fabric, and sew down. This is the only picture I have of me in this hat (on the right) and that's my sister in red. I tried to get clever recently, and sewed my covering fabric into a tube and then slipped it over the buckram and pleated it by hand. It took forever. Pleat the fabric when it's flat and manipulate it to cover the buckram and then sew. A way to get both the appearance of pleats and the scalloped edge would be to make the hat as if it really were a "coffee filter hat" (this is the nickname that many costumers give these hats.) Think of a standard basketstyle coffee filter. It's made out of a disk of paper, which has then been fluted at the top and sides. Found at for those interested in more information. Used with permission.

7 One Lady s Memories When first I came to the Shire of Nahrun Kabirun (for it was either here or the Shire of Burning Sands, which is as delightful as the name implies), I visited a fencing practice. There I first met the Honorable Lady Brid uí Chon na Mara, the chatelaine of the group, for the first time. And she was a brilliant chatelaine, as I m sure some of you recall, making me feel welcome and at home with this newly-risen group. I was invited to A&S (though I got lost for a half hour that first time) and informed about local events and practices. She was delighted to have someone who was new to the area, but not the Society, and thus a fresh resource for Nahrun, with many unfledged members at the time. This was, I believe, the end of March in A.S. 47, or perhaps the beginning of April. Coming up that very weekend was an event in Citadel, Fools of April, where Tristan had been kind enough to take me, and Lady Brid graciously took me home when I showed a desire to stay longer. I found, for the first time, I was interested in court! For, you see, I knew some of these people who were called up, and would come to know them better. The only time I d enjoyed court prior to this was when I was the acting Herald (ah, how well my theatre training serves me!). But I digress. So I began regularly attending all Shire events and assisted a very grateful Lady Brid in preparing for Clan Wars. She joyfully accepted my assistance in planning, backing, and running interference. I similarly helped with coronation, my interest in this welcoming group so intense. Brid was also the first to encourage me to put in a letter for seneschal. I have the heart of an artist, but the mind of a bureaucrat, I admit it. During my two years as seneschal, she offered a shoulder, advice, a link to sanity, and transportation to the reaches of the land where my own aged mount was unable to go. Even though she assumed the role of kingdom chatelaine (a role for which she was made) at the same time I assumed my office, she was still within reach as a mentor or just a friendly ear. I think best by thinking out loud, so perhaps I used her as a sound board too often, but no one else was as easy to hold a conversation with on the burdens of my own job. Once or twice I was ready to quit and run fleeing from the Society, she calmed me down, suggested I wait to see if matters improved. Indeed they often did, without my influence, sometimes overnight! I remember well when she was offered admittance into the Order of the Pelican. I believe I caught onto what Their Majesties intended a few moments before she did and began actively recording the occasion. As seneschal, I tried to encourage as many people as possible to

8 participate in her ceremony, to feel like they were part of that special event. I myself designed, drafted, and helped make (all but the trim and finished ends, I believe) the outfit she wore the afternoon she accepted and was admitted into the order. I knew it was a height she had aspired to at one time, but long had dismissed, especially after moving kingdoms. She might not have attained it, if not for the behind-the-scenes work of her dear friend Mistress Monika Von Zell, who made certain the Monarchs of the Outlands knew of Lady Brid s deeds in distant Caid. I am ever grateful to Mistress Monika for that, and overjoyed that Mistress Brid had that in her last years. The perceptive among you may note that we seemed to have grown distant over the past year. I confess, I do not entirely know why. But I wanted to oblige the distance implied by her words and body language. I think that may have been part of my reason for withdrawing from the SCA as much as I did (though my profession and shortage of income also contributed). I regret that. I regret that I did not seek to mend the bridges while I could. Now I can never make amends. I could not share her last days of life. I will regret that my meager, belated overtures were not met with reception. I will miss her. But that seems such a small expression for what is gone. Though our beliefs differ, and she was as Christian as I am pagan, I hope and expect she is in a better place, free from pain and doubt and hurt. I hope she has been welcomed into the heaven in which she believed, while at the same time hoping to meet her on another turn of the wheel in which I believe. I found myself unable to attend her memorial service. Why? So many reasons differing beliefs, social anxiety, uncertainty of what to wear but I suppose the main reason is that it made her death real, and I wasn t ready for that. She touched us all, taught us all. She helped rebuild the Shire from nothing but the barest bones. As she and I are both Irish, I offer a simple proverb to ease her passing: May you receive mercy and grace, death without sin and may the righteous gone before you receive their share of Eternal Glory. Slán, Mhamó Farewell, Grandmother. ~Lady Caitilin inghean ui Thaidhg, called many things, but first and ever Kate

9 Three Month Kingdom Event Calendar September 9-11, Canton of Hawk s Hollow: Estes Park Scottish Irish Festival DEMO September 16-19, Shire of Drygestan: Santa Fe Renaissance Faire September 16-17, Canton of Hawk s Hollow: Northglenn Pirate Festival DEMO September 23-25, Barony of al-barran: al-barran Champions & Baronial Investiture September 24, Shire of Aarquelle: Aarquelle Defender October 1, Barony of Dragonsspine: Dragonsspine Investiture and A&S October 7-9, Barony of Fontaine Dans Sable: Warders of the Western Gate October 15-16, Shire of Blackwater Keep: Peanut Valley Festival DEMO October 15, Barony of the Citadel of the Southern Pass: Feast of St. Edrik October 15, Barony of Caerthe: Queen s Prize October 22, Shire of Villaleon: Day in a Shire October 22, Barony of Unser Hafen: Unser Hafen Newcomers October 22, College of Saint Golias: Feast of St. Golias November 5-6, Barony of al-barran: Coronation November 11-12, Kingdom of Calontir: Known World Fiber Arts Symposium November 19, Barony of al-barran: Day of A&S Regular Shire Meetings Archery on Saturday, 9 am behind Rio Grande Preparatory Institute (formerly San Andres High School) in Mesilla Fighter practice every Saturday at 11:00 am, Meerscheidt Recreational Center Light fighter practice every Saturday at 1 pm at NMSU outside the Corbett Center Student Union A&S is every Thursday at 6:30 pm at St. Andrew s Episcopal Church Populace meeting is held the first Thursday of the month, during A & S at 7:30 pm Officers Seneschal: Lord Heinric von Drachenburg Chatelaine: Lady Cecelia Trethewy Exchequer: Lord Eadric du Charbonnet Knight Marshal: Lady Gianina the Wanderer Archery Marshal: Lord Bryce MacManus Rapier Marshal: Lord Cathal Oken Siege Marshal: Lord Sigfrid von Bremen Arts & Sciences: Lady Tuathflaith Becc Herald: Lady Iðunn Hallsdottir Chronicler: Lady Caitilin inghean ui Thaidhg Webminister: Lord Warenus de Fulmere

10 Cover Art Cover art for this month is the device of Mistress Brid uí Chon na Mara. Chronicler Office All submissions welcome and considered! Deadline submissions for The Bard will be the fourth Tuesday of every month. All ideas, pages, pictures, artwork, articles for The Bard are welcomed and encouraged. Deliver in person, mobile, , or snail mail. preferred. Please include your name and/or title if you wish either to be known. Submissions can be sent to: Disclaimer This is the September 2016 issue of The Bard, a publication of the Shire of Nahrun Kabirun of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. (SCA, Inc.). The Bard is available at It is not a corporate publication of SCA, Inc., and does not delineate SCA, Inc. policies. Copyright 2016 Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. For information on reprinting photographs, articles, or artwork from this publication, please contact the Chronicler, who will assist you in contacting the original creator of the piece. Please respect the legal rights of our contributors.

The Bard. March A.S. 50 (2016)

The Bard. March A.S. 50 (2016) The Bard March A.S. 50 (2016) In This Month's Issue... Basic Roman Clothing... 3 Knucklebones... 5 Egyptian Myth of Nut and Geb... 7 More Estrella Tales from Lord Heinric... 8 Three Month Kingdom Event